I have returned from my expedition through the Southern Ocean and the Scotia Sea. Although a journey to similar places is recorded in "Antarctica -a soul Journey - awakening," this adventure proved to be a test and awakening of a different nature. Yes, another of those "once in a lifetime experiences," but one which opened up a new reality; a way of seeing this planet through different eyes. This voyage embraced other senses while following the paths of the lonely albatross and tracing more of Shackleton's footsteps.

It had been from the decks of Holland America's Rotterdam that I had first viewed the west coast of the Western Antarctic Peninsula in 2006. When in the majestic Lemaire Channel we had to turn around as there had been too much ice ahead. In that moment of disappointment I had watched a small expedition ship sail past us into the icy path that was a barrier to us. Later I was to see Zodiac boats from another expedition ship skim across mirrored waters and knew I must return.

Fast forward two years to the Polar Star, built as an Ice Breaker and loaded with Zodiac boats to take me ashore for the first time in this amazing world of Antarctica, the South Orkneys, South Shetlands and the Island of South Georgia. I would also return to the Falkland Islands.

I had some goals before setting out.
1. Having been in a ship too large to enter the caldron of Deception Island last time, I wanted to sail through Neptune's Bellows and land on the volcanic shore.
2. To be up close and personal with massive Elephant Seals and King Penguins.
3. To actually stand on the mainland of the Antarctic Continent.
4. To see Sir Ernest Shackleton's grave on South Georgia
5. To be at sea level before mighty ice bergs and
6. Be prepared for whatever providence and the universe gave me to experience.

In the caldera of Deception Island, South Shetlands at dawn 

Zodiac arriving at Brown Bluff, Antarctica being met by
Gentoo Penguins

 
With King Penguins at Gold Harbour, South Georgia 

A Black Browed Albatross chic testing its wings amid nesting
Rockhopper Penguins

Those experiences included sailing back to the ship, which we could not see in the storm, in a zodiac that was battling winds gusting to Force 9. I have stood on a darkened deck in the middle of the Southern Ocean with the only light coming from the Milky Way and the stars of the Southern Cross, such that one might be able to reach out and touch them. I have stood behind a clump of Tussock grass to watch a Black Browed Albatross return to her chick to feel it. I have stood surrounded by the sound of 150,000 pairs of King Penguins and chicks. A haunting sound never to be forgotten, witnessed with rain showers and an ever present rainbow.

One can allow transformation or deny connection and be unmoved. But to risk acknowledging one's attachment is to feel one's own power and frailty. The katabatic winds sweeping from the pole awakens all the senses and invites one to face the challenge of being.

The next set of blog entries will describe this odyssey.